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Cleaning electronics

The one area where the risk is not what the liquid does to the surface, but where the liquid goes — and five manufacturers say the same thing about it.

What this area turns on

Usually the hazard of a cleaning liquid is chemical: what it does to the material it touches. On a powered device the dominant risk is POSITIONAL. The liquid may do nothing at all to the plastic it lands on and still destroy the device, because it did not stay there. Read that way, the manufacturer instructions stop being a fussy list and become one rule stated five times. Power off and disconnect first, so that anything which does get in is not energised when it arrives. Put the liquid on the cloth and NEVER on the product, because a spray goes where the nozzle points and also where it does not. Damp, not dripping. Nothing into the openings. And air dry completely before power is restored, which closes the loop back to the first instruction. Five independent makers — a computer maker, a phone maker, an optical manufacturer, an audio guide and a flooring guide — give that instruction in the same terms. On chemistry the guidance is narrower than people expect and more specific than they assume: over 70% isopropyl alcohol or ethanol is cleared by two device manufacturers on hard glass, ceramic and metal surfaces, while bleach, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, window cleaner and a long list of solvents are prohibited by name. The gaps matter as much as the guidance. A phone maker's instructions stop at glass, ceramic and metal — so a rubber or leather case is outside it. Nobody publishes a charging-port procedure, and the same guidance prohibits the compressed air every consumer article recommends for exactly that job. And no manufacturer states whether alcohol is safe on a coated spectacle lens, which sits awkwardly beside a display the same chemical is cleared on.

Assessed and found wanting

Widely repeated techniques in this area that the evidence does not support, or supports only in part.

In this guide

  • Laptop computer

    Thing to clean

    An object where the cleaning question and the electrical question are one and the same, and where the manufacturer's answer is mostly a list of things not to do.

  • A horizontal grid of openings directly above the electronics. Every cleaning instruction for it is really an instruction about keeping liquid out.

  • Mobile phone

    Thing to clean

    The most-handled object anyone owns, and the manufacturer's guidance stops at glass, ceramic and metal — which leaves the case and the charging port outside it.

  • One of the most-asked cleaning questions there is, and the manufacturer's guidance does not answer it — while prohibiting the tool every article recommends.

  • On an appliance the question is not what the liquid does to the surface but where the liquid goes. Every manufacturer instruction here is a containment instruction wearing cleaning clothes.

  • Coated spectacle lens

    Material or surface

    A coated optical surface where the hazard is not the cleaner but the grit in whatever you wipe it with — and where a scratch is replaced rather than repaired.

  • Spectacles

    Thing to clean

    Cleaned more often than anything else a person owns, almost always on a shirt tail, which is the one method the lens manufacturer names as damaging.

  • Isopropyl alcohol

    Cleaning agent

    A solvent that dissolves oils and residues and evaporates without a trace. Useful on electronics and glass; flammable, and damaging to some plastics and finishes.

  • Split synthetic fibres with a very large surface area, which lift and trap soil mechanically — often with water alone.

  • The most recommended technique for the most asked question, and the phone manufacturer prohibits it by name while publishing no alternative.

  • Every manufacturer instruction says the same thing: put the liquid on the cloth, never on the device. A spray goes where the nozzle points and also where it does not.

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