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Wool

A protein fibre. The wool industry body advises against bleach of any kind and against enzyme detergents, and heat with agitation felts it irreversibly.

What not to do

Sodium hypochlorite (chlorine bleach) is unsafe on Wool

Unsafe

Do not do this. The risk is established, and it is described below.

The wool industry body advises against bleach of BOTH kinds, which is wider than the chlorine-only warning most laundry advice gives.

Precautions

  • Check the manufacturer's instructions

Evidence

Strongly supported

Sources

  1. Best detergent to use when washing wool

    The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

    Relied on for: That bleach must never be used when washing wool, chlorine-based or oxygen-based. (states this directly)

  2. Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology

    John Wiley & Sons · Reference work

    Relied on for: That hypochlorite is an aggressive oxidant which attacks protein fibres, and that keratin is a protein. (background and mechanism only)

Sodium percarbonate (oxygen bleach) is unsafe on Wool

Unsafe

Do not do this. The risk is established, and it is described below.

Oxygen bleach is widely believed to be the wool-safe alternative to chlorine bleach. The wool industry body advises against it too.

Precautions

  • Check the manufacturer's instructions

Evidence

Supported

Sources

  1. Best detergent to use when washing wool

    The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

    Relied on for: That bleach must never be used when washing wool, either chlorine or oxygen based, and that detergents containing bleaches should be avoided. (states this directly)

Sodium carbonate is unsafe on Wool

Unsafe

Do not do this. The risk is established, and it is described below.

Precautions

  • Check the manufacturer's instructions

Evidence

Supported

Sources

  1. Best detergent to use when washing wool

    The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

    Relied on for: That heavy-duty detergents are advised against for wool in favour of a mild or neutral detergent with a relatively neutral pH. (applied to this case rather than stated directly)

  2. Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology

    John Wiley & Sons · Reference work

    Relied on for: That alkaline hydrolysis degrades protein. (background and mechanism only)

Precautions

  • Check the manufacturer's instructions

In detail

Wool is keratin, a protein, and nearly every rule about washing it follows from that. Protein is hydrolysed by alkali, so strongly alkaline detergents and laundry boosters degrade the fibre rather than only stripping soil from it. Biological detergents contain proteases — enzymes whose purpose is to break down protein stains — and those enzymes do not distinguish between a protein stain and a protein fibre; the wool industry body advises against them by name. On bleach its position is wider than is often assumed: not chlorine bleach only, but chlorine and oxygen bleach alike, and detergents containing either. Separately from chemistry, wool fibres carry overlapping surface scales; under the combination of heat, moisture and mechanical agitation those scales interlock and the fabric felts, shrinking permanently. This is why wool washing guidance is as concerned with temperature and agitation as with what is in the water, and why the damage cannot be reversed once done. Garments certified as machine-washable are engineered for repeated washing on a wool cycle; that certification is a property of the garment, not of wool.

Properties

Sensitivity

Acids
Not known
Alkalis
Sensitive
Chlorine bleach
Sensitive
Heat
Sensitive
Abrasion
Sensitive
Porous
Sensitive

“Not known” means nobody has established this, not that the material is unaffected.

What works

    Wool detergent is safe on, in specific conditions, Wool

    Safe only in specific conditions

    This is only appropriate within specific limits. Outside those limits, no claim is made.

    Only within these limits:

    • A mild or neutral detergent, with no enzymes and no bleach of either kind
    • Wool cycle at 40°C, or hand wash at around 30°C
    • Gentle agitation only — do not rub, pull or wring
    • Dry flat unless the garment's own care claim states it may be tumble dried

    The garment's care label governs. Machine-washability is a property of the individual garment rather than of wool.

    Precautions

    • Check the manufacturer's instructions

    Evidence

    Supported

    Sources

    1. Best detergent to use when washing wool

      The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

      Relied on for: That a mild neutral detergent is recommended for wool and that heavy-duty, enzyme-containing and bleach-containing detergents are to be avoided. (states this directly)

    2. Wool care: how to wash wool, and caring for wool

      The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

      Relied on for: That wool is washed on a gentle wool cycle at 40°C or by hand at around 30°C, that garments should not be rubbed or wrung, and that drying flat is recommended unless the care claim permits tumble drying. (states this directly)

    Isopropyl alcohol is safe on, in specific conditions, Wool

    Safe only in specific conditions

    This is only appropriate within specific limits. Outside those limits, no claim is made.

    A conditional clearance for a solvent on a protein fibre, which is rare — most guidance on wool prohibits solvents without qualification.

    Only within these limits:

    • Diluted — three parts surgical spirit to one part cold water for red wine, fruit and fruit juice
    • Equal parts warm water and surgical spirit for alcoholic drinks
    • Applied by dabbing on a lint-free cloth, working from the edge towards the centre, never rubbing
    • Only after rinsing and a dilute detergent solution have been tried first
    • Followed by a wash in an approved wool detergent

    The wool body names surgical spirit in five of its ten stain entries and dilutes it in every one. It is the second step throughout, never the first.

    Precautions

    • Test on an inconspicuous area first
    • Ventilate the area

    Evidence

    Supported

    Sources

    1. Removing stains from wool

      The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

      Relied on for: That surgical spirit diluted three to one with cold water treats persistent red wine, fruit and fruit juice marks on wool; that equal parts warm water and surgical spirit treats alcoholic drinks; and that it is used for grass and for ballpoint ink, always after a first step and always followed by a wash. (states this directly)

    Wool detergent is safe on, in specific conditions, Wool

    Safe only in specific conditions

    This is only appropriate within specific limits. Outside those limits, no claim is made.

    Only within these limits:

    • A DILUTE solution, in TEPID water — not hot
    • Blot or scoop the excess first with white tissue or an absorbent towel
    • Work from the edge of the mark towards the centre, without rubbing
    • For oily stains, only AFTER a solvent has been applied and allowed to evaporate

    The wool body's stain method. The conditions are as much about order and technique as about the agent.

    Precautions

    • Test on an inconspicuous area first
    • Check the manufacturer's instructions

    Evidence

    Strongly supported

    Sources

    1. Removing stains from wool

      The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

      Relied on for: That treatment uses a dilute solution of approved wool detergent in tepid water, that excess is scooped or blotted first with white tissue, that the stain is worked from edge to centre without rubbing, and that oily stains take solvent first with evaporation before water-based treatment. (states this directly)

    Why

    Aftercare and prevention

    • Solvent wiping requires the aftercare Wool

      The aftercare is a wait: the solvent must fully evaporate before any water-based treatment follows.

    Hacks and claims involving this

    When the obvious answer is wrong

    What should I use on red wine spilled on a wool carpet or jumper?

    Wool is a protein fibre and oxidising bleaches attack it directly, degrading the keratin rather than the stain sitting on it. The damage is structural and it is not a mark that can be cleaned off afterwards: the fibre is weakened, and on a carpet the affected area wears differently from everything around it. The wool body approaches this from the other side, warning that methods aimed primarily at cotton or synthetic garments are not all suitable for wool.

    A different kind of treatment works: Change the mechanism from oxidation to dilution and dissolution, and respect the order. The wool body gives red wine, fruit and fruit juice their own entry and its sequence is three steps. First RINSE WITH CLEAN WATER — before any product, because wine is water-soluble while it is fresh and the cheapest removal happens then. Second, a DILUTE solution of an approved wool detergent. Third, and only where the mark persists, THREE PARTS SURGICAL SPIRIT TO ONE PART COLD WATER. Technique carries the rest and is stated for every entry on the page: scoop or blot the excess immediately with white tissue or an absorbent towel, work from the EDGE towards the centre, and dab rather than rub. Finish with a wash in an approved wool detergent. Where the label permits dry cleaning and the mark survives, tell the cleaner what the stain is AND what has already been applied to it — a treated stain is a different problem from an untreated one.

    What should I use on a greasy mark on a wool jumper?

    Wool is a protein fibre, and the mechanism that converts fat to soap also hydrolyses protein. A strong alkali therefore attacks the garment on the same chemistry it uses on the stain, and the damage is to the fibre rather than to its appearance — it is not a mark that can be cleaned off afterwards. The wool body approaches the same problem from the other end, warning that methods primarily aimed at garments made from cotton or synthetic fibres are not all suitable for wool, and specifying a dilute wool detergent in TEPID water rather than anything stronger or hotter.

    A different kind of treatment works: Change the mechanism from saponification to dissolution, and respect the order. The wool body's instruction for oily or greasy stains is that they are best treated with SOLVENTS FIRST, and that the solvent MUST BE ALLOWED TO EVAPORATE before any water-based treatment is subsequently carried out. That waiting step is the part most likely to be skipped and it is stated explicitly. The water-based stage that follows is a dilute solution of an approved wool detergent in tepid water — dilute rather than strong, tepid rather than hot. Technique carries the rest: scoop or blot the excess quickly with white tissue or an absorbent towel, work from the edge of the mark towards the centre, and do not rub. Where the mark survives that, the honest next step is professional cleaning rather than a stronger alkali.

    Sources for this page

    Sources

    1. Best detergent to use when washing wool

      The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

      Relied on for: That bleach must never be used on wool, chlorine-based or oxygen-based, and that heavy-duty and enzyme-containing biological detergents should be avoided in favour of a mild neutral detergent. (states this directly)

    2. Wool care: how to wash wool, and caring for wool

      The Woolmark Company · Trade or professional body

      Relied on for: That wool is washed on a gentle wool cycle at 40°C or by hand at around 30°C, and that garments are recommended to be dried flat unless the care claim permits tumble drying. (states this directly)

    3. Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology

      John Wiley & Sons · Reference work

      Relied on for: That keratin is a protein and that proteins are hydrolysed by alkali and by protease enzymes. (background and mechanism only)

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