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Bicycle

The one object in this catalogue where cleaning it wrong is a mechanical risk rather than a cosmetic one — because the solvent that cleans the chain destroys the bearings.

Precautions

  • Check the manufacturer's instructions
  • Ventilate the area
  • Dispose of responsibly

Start here

What this is, what goes wrong with it, and where CleaningHQ can help.

Which part are you cleaning?

These parts take different answers. Cleaning one the way you clean another is a common way to damage this.

  • Bicycle chain

    The dirtiest component on the machine and the one that must be lubricated immediately after it is cleaned. Cleaning it and stopping there causes wear.

    Stainless steel

    6 things not to use here

  • Bicycle cassette

    Narrow gaps that trap grass, grit and old lubricant, sitting directly on top of a sealed bearing that solvent must not reach.

    Stainless steel, Aluminium

    16 things not to use here

  • Bicycle frame

    Painted or lacquered tubing where the damage comes from grit under a cloth rather than from anything in the bucket.

    Aluminium, Painted and coated steel, Anodised aluminium

    16 things not to use here

What tends to go wrong

The science behind this: Alkali attack on light metals, Solvents and polymers, Solvent crazing, Static and dust, Plasticizer migration

In detail

A bicycle is unusual here in that the cleaning has consequences for how the machine works, not only for how it looks. The trade documentation sets the order first: begin with the dirtiest items, which is typically the chain and drivetrain, so that the grit being removed does not end up on surfaces already cleaned. Warm water is specified for the same reason it is at a sink, with a biodegradable dishwashing liquid or similar soap. Two agents in sequence do the drivetrain — a degreaser and then soapy water — because the combination is described as very effective at cleaning the chain and removing grit. Three constraints turn this from a wash into a procedure. Water pressure is bounded: if a hose is used, only low pressure with a wide spray, and compressed air must not be blasted directly at bearings. Solvent must be kept out of the bearings, to the point that the documentation prescribes leaning the wheel so the cogs face the ground. And the chain MUST be re-lubricated afterwards, run through a clean dry rag first and then given one drop per link. A grit detail generalises beyond bicycles: dirt trapped between a clamp jaw and the paint mars the finish, though the jaw itself does not.

Hacks and claims involving this

Sources for this page

Sources

  1. How to Wash a Bicycle

    Park Tool Co. · Manufacturer documentation

    Relied on for: That the drivetrain is cleaned first, that a degreaser then a soap is very effective at removing grit, that a hose must be used only at low pressure with a wide spray, that compressed air must not be blasted at bearings, that the wheel is leaned to keep solvent out of the bearing, and that the chain must be re-lubricated at one drop per link. (states this directly)

    Verification: a person has read the passage relied on.

    Read on The procedure in full: preparation, the drivetrain sequence, frame and wheels, rinsing, drying and re-lubrication. Supports the claim as stated. Opens the bicycle as an object with drivetrain components, and supplies the two facts that make it safety-relevant rather than cosmetic: solvent must be kept out of the bearings, and the chain must be re-lubricated afterwards.

Last reviewed by a person on .

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Parts that need different treatment

Advice given for the whole appliance is necessarily wrong about at least one of these.